Dichroic Enamel Firing Tips
I've only been enameling a short time -- in fact, I'm still working on my color samples!
I've been playing around mostly with the Magenta/Green DicroSlide™ (shifts to teal blue).
The colors are so pretty after it shifts, resulting in shades of blue and sometimes purple.
I plan to expand my color palette as I continue to make enamel color samples, but for now, I dig that teal-blue shift!
This table shows what I've learned so far about how best to create dichroic enamels with DicroSlide.
These firing tips are in addition to the instructions that come with the DicroSlide, which are written for glass fusing rather than enameling.
As more enamelists begin to experiment and innovate using DicroSlide, I hope you'll share your results and firing tips.
If you have come up with any cool firing tips, please email me, and I'll post them on this site with credit to you.
| Tip 1 |
Embrace unpredictability! Sometimes getting consistent results using DicroSlide can be tricky.
But for me, unpredictability is one reason why enameling is so fun. |
| Tip 2 |
Be sure to do test firings with DicroSlide before firing it onto an important piece.
Obviously. |
| Tip 3 |
In planning your design, consider that the dichroic effect from DicroSlide on enameled copper is much more subtle than the effect found on fused dichroic glass. |
| Tip 4 |
In planning your design, be aware that DicroSlide tends to flow with the enamel, which can result in a slightly crazed effect. |
| Tip 5 |
DicroSlide has a carrier material on it which keeps it from dissolving when put into water.
When enameling small pieces, such as earrings and pendants, this carrier material vaporizes rapidly in the kiln.
I am not sure what the results would be, however, if enameling using a larger piece of DicroSlide.
For glass fusing using a large piece of DicroSlide (bigger than 4x4 inches), the manufacturer recommends that a 20-60 minute "hold" be programmed into the fusing cycle at 950°F to allow the carrier material to burn out.
Given that, some accommodation may be necessary during the enameling process to allow the carrier to burn out on larger pieces.
Again, this is a product that is new to enameling, and still needs some experimentation. |
| Tip 6 |
The colors of the underlayers of enamel change the way the DicroSlide color appears after firing. |
| Tip 7 |
The dichroic effect seems to be more dramatic on curved or domed metal. |
| Tip 8 |
The color and dichroic effect are stronger on darker colors and backgrounds. |
| Tip 9 |
Always use distilled water to apply the DicroSlide. |
| Tip 10 |
Keep the DicroSlide slightly damp while moving it on the glass. |
| Tip 11 |
Generally, place DicroSlide on the enamel with the dichroic (shiny) side up.
Placing the shiny dichroic-side down may produce a different result. |
| Tip 12 |
Use the dampened end of wooden skewer to move or uncurl the DicroSlide shapes. |
| Tip 13 |
Let the applied DicroSlide dry overnight.
If you don't, steam can make the DicroSlide have a nonuniform appearance after firing. |
| Tip 14 |
I have had the best luck by applying the DicroSlide to the top layer of enamel, then spraying with 50/50 KlyrFire and water, applying a super-light coat of Thompson Clear Flux #2030 (80 mesh) or Thompson Wax Yellow #2110 (80 mesh), letting it dry overnight, then firing normally. |
| Tip 15 |
Keep the top coat of enamel light.
If the coat is too heavy, it seems to cloud up on top of the DicroSlide. |
| Tip 16 |
Of course, all kilns are different. I have a small Paragon SC-3 with a ceramic fiber firing chamber rather than fire brick, with a programmable controller.
I fire the DicroSlide as the last firing, which is at 1450°-1475° for 1 minute 20 seconds for a jewelry-sized piece. |
| Tip 17 |
It seems best to fire the DicroSlide only once.
My experience has been that it can fade upon subsequent firings. |
| Tip 18 |
Don't grind down the final coat of enamel. The DicroSlide is sitting right under that light top coat, and even though it does get fired in, it can accidentally be stoned off. |
| Tip 19 |
I had previously not been able to get the dichroic material to be consistently stable on the enamel surface after firing, and had been using a top layer of clear enamel over the DicroSlide.
I figured out how to do it without that top layer of clear.
I tried firing the enamel with the dichroic on it for twice as long as I normally do, and at a lower temperature, and it seems quite stable.
I've rubbed it, washed it, and even tried scraping it with my fingernail, and it doesn't seem to come off.
I think it needs to be in the kiln longer so the binder can burn all of the way off to be stable.
I fired it for 3 minutes at 1450°F, and it worked great.
It's a really different look -- there's a small amount of crazing still, but it's a much shinier effect and has a much better dichroic sheen.
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